Zara found Bheem the chaiwallah sitting alone on the rear balcony, watching the stars blur past. “Why do you do this?” she asked. “You could own a café in a mall.”

He smiled. “In a mall, people look at their phones. Here, they look out the window. Then they look at each other. Then they ask the person next to them, ‘Are you going to finish that samosa?’ That is the desi district , miss. Not the food. Not the crafts. The question.”

Her cabin was named Chai Tapri —No. 7. The moment she slid the door open, a blast of ginger-tea steam hit her face. A real chaiwallah, Bheem, had a tiny brass stove fixed to the window ledge. “Forty rupees,” he said, handing her a kulhad. “No card machine. No attitude.”

Zara, a cynical food vlogger from London, clutched her boarding pass. “A train that curates street food, crafts, and chaos? Clickbait,” she muttered. Her producer had dared her to find “authentic India.” She didn’t expect it to find her first.